“20 minutes before that wave I watched Shane catch his wave and he didn’t make it. For Shane’s wave we all saw the horizon rise and we all paddled out. Then I watched Shane turn and go. He seemed like he was too far out and that’s why he airdropped. His wave was the set of the morning. I told my self that I wouldn’t paddle out when the next set came in. Shortly after I watched the horizon rise again and I stayed my ground and turned and started to paddle in. I paddled harder then I’ve ever paddl
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The breaking even boys, when they see the wave starting to bend down the line you know they bout to turn on the afterburners 🏎️🔥 🎥 @gundlockgold #bodyboarding #wedge #surf #waves | Riptide Bodyboarding
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This is the part they don’t show you in the Pipeline brochure. Trying to catch a wave here is such a fine line between rapture and pissing someone off that it becomes an artform. Once you are by yourself with the wave however (and I always check as I can’t stand drop ins) you forget everything except the paradox of trying to get out of the predicament you wanted to get yourself into. If that all sounds strange then I am one of the biggest weirdos there is. My first wave of the season this year,
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